LG Washer LE error code
| What it means | Spin failure — the motor was locked or overloaded. |
|---|---|
| Fault familySometimes an overload or a shipping bolt left in. Sometimes not. | Motor or drive |
| Same fault, other codes on this brandthis brand shows only one code for it | — |
| Step 1 | Unplug for five minutes, then try again. |
| Step 2 | Reduce the load size. |
| Step 3 | Check the tub for a foreign object — coins, wire from a bra, a small sock. |
| Same fault on other brandsuseful when the house has two machines, or when searching a repair forum | Whirlpool F7 E1 |
| Service call?work through the steps above in order; they run cheapest first | Not necessarily |
Notes
- LE on a LG washer means: Spin failure — the motor was locked or overloaded.
- LG uses a single code for this fault across its washer range, so anything you find under LE applies.
- Across brands this is the same fault as Whirlpool F7 E1. No manufacturer publishes that mapping, because each one documents only its own codes — but the underlying failure and the order you check things in are identical.
- Work the steps in order. They are arranged so the free checks come before the ones that cost money, which is also the order in which the causes actually occur.
- Clearing the code is not fixing it. Every one of these machines will show the code again on the next cycle if the underlying condition is still there. A code that clears and stays away means the fix worked; a code that clears and comes back means it did not.
What the code means
LG washer, code LE — Spin failure — the motor was locked or overloaded.
Fault family: Motor or drive.
The same fault under other names
| Where | Code |
|---|---|
| This brand, other model years | — |
| Other brands | Whirlpool F7 E1 |
Manufacturers document only their own codes, so nobody publishes that second row. It matters more than it looks: a household usually owns two brands over time, and a repair thread that solves your problem is often written about the other one.
Work the checks in order
The steps below are ordered so the free ones come first. That is also the order in which the causes actually occur — the cheap check is cheap because it is the common cause, not despite it.
Start with: Unplug for five minutes, then try again.
Clearing the code is not the fix
Every machine here will show the code again on the next cycle if the condition that caused it is still present. Two outcomes are worth telling apart:
- the code clears and stays away — the fix worked
- the code clears and returns — it did not, and the next cycle costs you the same diagnosis again
Cutting power for a minute clears the display on nearly all of these. It does not tell you anything about the fault.
When to stop and call someone
A code is a service call when the next step would put you next to something live, pressurised, or holding water above the door line — or when the maker itself says so, which is noted on this page where it applies.
Everything else on this list is a filter, a hose, a latch or a load. Those are worth twenty minutes before anyone charges a call-out fee.
Nearby sizes
Read more
- Washer Hums But Won't Start: Door Lock, Drain, or a Seized MotorMost machines that appear dead are actually waiting for a condition that is never met, and they cannot tell you which one.
- Clothes Still Soaking After a Cycle: The Machine Skipped the SpinWet clothes are the visible end of a chain that started earlier in the cycle, and the machine usually gave up for a reason.
- A Squeaking Dryer: Rollers, Idler or Bearing, and How to TellDryers are simple machines with three things that rub, and each one makes a different noise.
- Water Under a Dryer: Condensation, Not a LeakThe first thing to establish is which kind of dryer it is, because one of them has no water in it to leak.